How to care for your HBL leather — and what not to use

Not all leather care is good care. Here's what I use, what I avoid, and why your HBL piece will age better when you leave Dubbin on the shelf.

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Every piece that leaves my bench is made to last — but leather is a natural material, and how you care for it matters. I don't believe in overcomplicating things, but I also don't believe in guessing. So here's exactly what I recommend.

For vegetable-tanned leather (dyed or undyed)

I treat every vegetable-tanned piece with a dye spray that offers water resistance while still allowing the leather to breathe. That's important because leather that can't breathe will trap moisture, and trapped moisture leads to rot, stiffness, and premature cracking.

That's also why I don't use — and don't recommend — Dubbin for our climate. Dubbin was formulated for cold, damp European winters. In South Africa, it can break down the natural oils in the leather and actually accelerate drying and cracking. It's counterintuitive, but true.

What I do recommend:

Every vegetable-tanned HBL piece is supplied with a small tin of my own blend:

Mineral oil + beeswax (proportions I've dialled in over time)

A few drops of essential oil for a subtle, clean scent

To use it:

Apply a small amount to a clean cloth

Rub it into the leather in circular motions

Let it sit for a few minutes

Buff with a dry cloth

Do this every 3–6 months, or whenever the leather starts to feel dry. That's it.

For pull-up leather (like the Ubuntu Crossbody)

Pull-up leather is treated during the tanning process with special oils and waxes that create that beautiful, light-reactive effect — the colour shifts and lightens where the leather bends.

Do not apply any finish over pull-up leather. No wax. No oil. No conditioner. The pull-up effect is the finish. Applying anything on top will dull the effect, clog the pores, and leave you with a flat, heavy-looking piece.

To maintain pull-up leather:

Wipe gently with a clean, dry cloth

Use a soft suede brush to restore the nap and bring back the pull-up effect

That's it

If the leather gets wet, let it air dry naturally — away from direct heat or sunlight — and brush it once it's dry.

A note on hardware

I use solid brass and stainless steel hardware — it won't rust or tarnish the way plated metals do. If your hardware does get marked, a gentle polish with a soft cloth is all it needs. Avoid harsh chemicals. In the event that certain hardware be unavailable in solid brass or stainless, the highest quality available replacement will be sourced and used.

What about the liner?

Liners are either upholstery fabric or pig suede. Both are durable, but pig suede is more absorbent. If you spill something, blot it immediately with a dry cloth. Don't rub. For fabric liners, a gentle vacuum with a brush attachment works well for dust.

One last thing

If you ever have a question about your HBL piece — how to clean it, how to store it, or how to bring it back to life — just message me. I make these things by hand. I know them inside out. I'd rather you ask than guess.

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